Denali 2019

Left 14K camp at 2:00 p.m. Encountered hard, good snow and used crampons throughout the 16km, 2,200m descent. The weather was good and the walk was relatively easy and enjoyable, except for Heartbreak Hill, where it was a bit slow. We enjoyed traveling at night because there was no brutal sun on the lower glacier. Retrieved our second sled, which we had cached at 11K camp. We arrived at Base Camp the next day at 5:00 a.m. Vera retrieved our cache with jerky and other snacks, which tasted fantastic. Then, she set up the tent while I rested for a bit. Vera started melting snow and packing our stuff for air. At 9:30 a.m., we left Base Camp in Talkeetna Air Taxi. After 22 days of only snow, ice, and rock, the green foliage produced a previously unknown, very deep, sharp, and distinct impression. We were not sure how to describe it. We both entered a mental state of absolute inner peace and harmony and remained in it for the next few days. We experienced unreal pleasure from any food, sleep

In the morning, we had breakfast and packed. The packs got even heavier (as always). On descent, despite having done it before, my crampons got loose and came off. So, I had to stop on the rope and adjust them. The 14K camp welcomed us by having free food that the commercial team was giving away - they were leaving without summiting (gave up on Zebra rocks). One of the three concerns (descending fixed rope with heavy packs) is now off the list. Tomorrow, we'll be tackling Windy Corner and Squirrel Hill. We'll be picking up the second cached sled at the 11K camp, and then it will be a worry-free walk to the Base. Read more details by Vera   here .

It was snowing and we were in a whiteout. There was no wind, so we packed up and left 17K camp. We were going home! As always, the packs felt the heaviest. The footpath was partially gone, so by the time we reached the top of the fixed lines, I was concerned that the approach would be covered by snow and that we might wander into a crevasse. So we decided to bivouac, exactly where the Mongolians had their tent ruined by a snow block hurled by the wind. The platform was already there, so setting up the tent was not a problem. That's what we thought, only to discover that a tent pole had broken - the piece that connects to the poles was stuck inside one of the poles. Luckily, it was calm on the ridge, so after a few tries, we were able to splinter it with one section of a ski pole. You can see a more detailed report by Vera here .

I woke up at 02:00 a.m. to find Vera already awake and waiting for me with wide-open eyes. The sky was clear and quiet, and the digital thermometer measured the snow temperature at -19.7°C. After melting some snow and eating breakfast, we dressed up and left the 17K camp at 04:45 a.m. We had trained for the Autobahn traverse on Mt. Hood, thinking it was twice as difficult as Autobahn on Denali. But in reality, it was the opposite. Autobahn on Denali turned out to be twice as hard as we expected, with hard snow and no possibility for self-belay. Our ice-axes were only good for balance, and we didn't have an extra ice tool, only one straight axe each. So when we came across the 50m unprotected stretch, we both realized that one slip from either of us could end it all. It was only a 20-meter unprotected traverse, but it was enough to get our adrenaline pumping! We then passed Denali pass, Zebra rocks, Football field, and finally arrived at Pig Hill, which was the real challenge at the

I was really concerned that our thirst on the first night at 5,220 meters 17K camp might trigger Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or even worse conditions like High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). To make matters worse, I had lost some water from my system due to a bout of diarrhea on the 16K ridge. Despite my offers to share the remaining water mixed with snow, Vera refused. In the morning, after sunrise, we packed our stove and headed down. The weather was good, a bit windy and cold, but still climbable. We descended the 16K ridge to the top of the fixed lines in 1.5 hours, retrieved our cache and melted snow, and cooked some Mountain House. After a break, we returned to 17K camp. Some guided teams followed us and passed ahead. I thought they were moving too quickly after climbing the fixed lines, and their speed seemed to have exhausted them. Their original plan was to move the cache to 17K, but after reaching Washburn thumb, they changed their m

Today was a big day! We moved to our 17th camp at an altitude of 5,200 meters. This is our 6th camp so far. We spent our first night without drinking water or food, and it was very thirsty. View Larger Map Full story by Vera  here .

Today is our last day at the 14K camp, and it's hard to believe we've spent 10 days here. The storm has tapered off, and the skies are blue with no wind. We have packed our stuff and sealed the sled for preservation. Tomorrow, we will leave for 17K.