Denali 2019

190 days to Day 1 We have upgraded our Ropeman ascender to more serious jumar: we rejected first two models for various reasons. This one is the best to work with thick winter gloves. Combined with  Microtraxion we can ascend at mechanical advantage up to 3:1. Looks easy, doesn't?

247 days to Day 1 As they say, break your mountaineering boots early. "They" were right. Two of us climbed Mt. Shuksan - a very popular peak in Washington State. Got some mileage on Vera's new expedition boots: 22km distance, 2,000m up and down. Lesson : Wearing unbroken brand-new alpine boots on an expedition is a very poor idea. The summit! Blisters on the summut, 11km still to go! Filling summit register. Six rappels down from the top. Fun! Imagine getting these on a 20 days expedition.

1 day to Day 1 After four days on the road, on July 6 2018 we showed up at the empty Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station, the climbing season was already over. After a few days in the snow storm, everyone was leaving the mountain, park rangers  were packing and flying off the strategic 14K camp, all commercial teams were descending, and no-one was climbing. During mandatory orientation, we were told by a NPS ranger that avalanche season was at it's peak, that recent storm brought one meter of fresh snow, all tracks will be gone and that we would be alone on the entire mountain if we go: there will be  no radio weather update, no fixed ropes at the bottom of headwall, and possibly no return airlift from the base - either have to prepare airstrip by ourselves or walk several days (on a glacier) to a cooler place. They didn't prohibit us to go though - we had our permits in hand. So we made our decision - call it off, until 2019. PHOTO: Typical for Denali: more than half

4 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) On July 2, 2018 we left Vancouver for our first attempt of Denali. Driving along highway, I remember, Vera looked at me and said: "Guess, what we forgot?!" From her look I felt that it was something big, but couldn't figure out. "The sled!" And then I remembered putting it next to the exit door in my apartment, and not taking it! Wow, that's a loss. We were already 500 km away from home. Then Vera quickly suggested: "We will rent it there!" - oh yes, I forgot that Denali air taxi companies all rent expedition sleds. That will do. However, I felt that mountain gods had different plans for us, and leaving the hard to miss big item such as a sled was a message for us in a string of following events, that prevented us (luckily) from entering the mountain. The summit of Denali in 2018 was simply not ready to accept us - counting our Shasta and Spindle accidents, the sled was only part of that vicious chain. PHOTO: Enr

Vera came over at 06:40 a.m., and shortly after we were on our the way to Alaska.

96 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Easter 2018. Inspecting our boots. Looking good. Interesting fact - doctors at hospital saved these boots - they didn't cut them off, probably cause the lacing was already loose - I took them off Vera's feet that night in Spindle Coulour to place toe warmers, then put them back on, without lacing.

142 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) In Vancouver General Hospital, 7th floor, trauma unit.

143 days to Day 1

145 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Two of us made First Recorded Ascent (FRA) of Spindle Peak via Spindle Couloir. We wanted to climb (and downlcimb) something similar (or harder) to the headwall on the Denali West Buttress, which is ~250 meters high. Spindle Couloir is 580 meters, steeper and without fixed ropes - was ideal: it supports our motto - if training is not twice as hard of the real climb, it is not a training. Lessons : 1) always check ultimate backup 2) sattelite phones can't dial 911 The bad dream Many, many years ago, I saw a weird dream, which ever since had kept arbitrary popping-up in my mind: an unidentified person, who looks very familiar to me, is starting uncontrolled slow slide down a steep ice chute, then quickly accelerates under gravity and disappears out of sight, probably to her death. It is quiet from the beginning to the very end. Like in those black-and-white silent movies. No screams. And then I am still there, on that edge, alone, tr

146 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Set up our brand new expedition tent. Practiced climbing and descending fixed lines. Practicing tricky overcoming moat like this will prove very useful tomorrow on Spindle. Same, but with huge exposure and consequences. Since then, we have replaced our Ropemans with Jumars. Our technique has bettered too.

164 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Preparing for the expedition produced yet another positive impact on my life style: balancing daily diet. Today, Vera causally said, "On the Internet, people say that an expedition diet must be high on carbohydrates". Really?! So I checked - yes, really indeed. It just made sense. Now I see the reason why all food labels show carbs content. Then I opened my spreadsheet and checked carbs content in our already put together Denali food - it was  only 40% of the required amount! Same if not even worse was with my daily diet (I do monitor what I eat). Wow - that casual remark made me to revamp my entire approach to food - Denali's and daily.