Denali 2019

108 days to Day 1 Practiced climbing steep snow in pairs on running belay. South slope of Pump Peak, up to 45°, three 30m pitches.

104 days to Day 1 Training for the Denali Summit day. Distance one way, km Elevation gain, m  Hood 5.5 1,680 Denali 3.7 931 From commercial itinerary: "From High Camp we cross a long flat section of glacier and gain the slope leading to Denali Pass known as "the Autobahn". There are fixed pickets along this section of the route and the climbing can be on anything from deep winter snow to bullet-proof blue ice." We thought nothing would be better for Autobahn training as Mt. Hood in Oregon. Besides we had unfinished business there: the actual summit. So off we went. The condition of Vera's first-degree frostbite received here, two weeks prior . Taking a break at Devil's Kitchen The traverse looks pretty much like photos of actual Denali Autobahn. We just saw a climber slipping and falling down to the base. Quite a fall - she survived. Coincidentally, we also saw yet another fall almost along t...

105 days to Day 1 Two of us practiced climbing steep and very steep snow: running belay (45° 3x30m) on the south side of Pump Peak, rappel off north side of Tim Jones (60m), climb 60° fixed line back.

116 days to Day 1 First time ever, two of us climbed at winds approaching 100 km/h, officially recorded by weather station. We never climb when it's windy (summit wind speed > 20 km/h), but for the Denali preparation, we were curious how it would feel to have strong winds climbing open snow slopes. We had it. Result: first degree frostbite. Lessons learned : Avoid direct touch of any uninsulated metal. If windy, wear goggles or it will hurt. Crossing US border on a beautiful sunny day. Mt. Hood (3,427m)  is a super popular alpine peak. It is the highest mountain in Oregon. We have climbed it already via Pearly Gates route back in 2017. Our track Wind speed on the climbing day. 11:00 was recorded 93km/h, at 2,000m, but we climbed at 3,000m, so.. Windy..will pick up more speed higher up and will blow hardest after sunset on our descent, in darkness. We decided to quit "just" 60m below the summit. Good call it was: we didn't know yet that Vera ha...

128 days to Day 1 Camped two nights at Dinkey Peak . We wanted to check our tent under heavy static stress and we got lucky. It was pretty big (for local standards) dump of wet snow overnight and our expedition tent passed the test. Had to get out at night and check the structure - the tent stood, with thick layer of wet snow on top and sides. Lesson leaned : watch tent poles. If accidentally dropped, they can travel over and then under the snow quite a distance. Although I knew this, I still managed to drop one and it was gone down the steep slope in less than one second. It was already dark, so we pitched the tent without it. Next morning, Vera spotted it sticking out 10 meters below us. So I lowered her on belay and she retrieved it: after being airbiorn like an bow arrow, it pierced hard layer of crust and stopped, only 20cm of it still sticking out. One pole is gone...and odds of finding it next morning being <1%. Vera's attitude in such situations (not first time!...

190 days to Day 1 We have upgraded our Ropeman ascender to more serious jumar: we rejected first two models for various reasons. This one is the best to work with thick winter gloves. Combined with  Microtraxion we can ascend at mechanical advantage up to 3:1. Looks easy, doesn't?

247 days to Day 1 As they say, break your mountaineering boots early. "They" were right. Two of us climbed Mt. Shuksan - a very popular peak in Washington State. Got some mileage on Vera's new expedition boots: 22km distance, 2,000m up and down. Lesson : Wearing unbroken brand-new alpine boots on an expedition is a very poor idea. The summit! Blisters on the summut, 11km still to go! Filling summit register. Six rappels down from the top. Fun! Imagine getting these on a 20 days expedition.