The Russian-Chinese Team Summits Denali, North America's Tallest Peak, in 22 Days – Achieving the Feat Without Guides, Porters, or Medications, Utilizing the West Buttress (Standard) Route.
Departure!
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Vera came over at 06:40 a.m., and shortly after we were on our the way to Alaska.
248 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) 千里之行,始於足下 "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" - Chinese proverb Today determined coordinates of all camps on West Buttress route: 7K Base Camp 8K Ski Hill camp 10K Intermediate camp 11K Motorcycle Hill camp 14K Basin camp 17K High camp
It was snowing and we were in a whiteout. There was no wind, so we packed up and left 17K camp. We were going home! As always, the packs felt the heaviest. The footpath was partially gone, so by the time we reached the top of the fixed lines, I was concerned that the approach would be covered by snow and that we might wander into a crevasse. So we decided to bivouac, exactly where the Mongolians had their tent ruined by a snow block hurled by the wind. The platform was already there, so setting up the tent was not a problem. That's what we thought, only to discover that a tent pole had broken - the piece that connects to the poles was stuck inside one of the poles. Luckily, it was calm on the ridge, so after a few tries, we were able to splinter it with one section of a ski pole. You can see a more detailed report by Vera here .
146 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Set up our brand new expedition tent. Practiced climbing and descending fixed lines. Practicing tricky overcoming moat like this will prove very useful tomorrow on Spindle. Same, but with huge exposure and consequences. Since then, we have replaced our Ropemans with Jumars. Our technique has bettered too.
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