The Russian-Chinese Team Summits Denali, North America's Tallest Peak, in 22 Days – Achieving the Feat Without Guides, Porters, or Medications, Utilizing the West Buttress (Standard) Route.
Departure!
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Vera came over at 06:40 a.m., and shortly after we were on our the way to Alaska.
248 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) 千里之行,始於足下 "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" - Chinese proverb Today determined coordinates of all camps on West Buttress route: 7K Base Camp 8K Ski Hill camp 10K Intermediate camp 11K Motorcycle Hill camp 14K Basin camp 17K High camp
Weiwei wrote: On May 17th, on Day 6, when the temperature was -15C, the plan was to "Cache with the sled and go as far as we could." The sled was heavy, so I loaded my backpack as much as possible to ease the burden on the Doctor. We managed to make it up to the top of Motorcycle Hill, where I accidentally dropped into a crevasse, but it wasn't too deep. Then we climbed Squirrel Hill, which was icy. We reached the base of Windy Corner and, upon looking up, saw that the sky was clear blue. However, halfway up the mountain, a sudden gust of wind and a drop in temperature occurred. We quickly put on our ski goggles to protect ourselves from the harsh conditions. Even with two layers of gloves, I was still cold. The ice grew thicker, and the snow became thin as we climbed higher up Motorcycle Hill (later determined that the wind was too strong for the snow to stay in place). With determination, we trudged on, but the wind grew stronger and soon we found ourselves in a whiteou...
206 days to Day 1 (1st attempt) Two of us climbed Mt. Shasta 4,317m (CA) via Avalanche Gulch route. It became the 30th, above 4,000 meters peak, that we climbed together. The climb was to train for the Denali summit day. Distance one way, km Elevation gain Shasta 7.8 2,107 Denali 3.7 931 Lesson : if you can't self-belay on a snow slope, never count on self-arrest, instead protect PHOTO: Avalanche Gulch is just in the middle The climb The descent On the descent we stopped for lunch break at Misery Hill, and Vera pointed out to the shifted metal band on one of my crampons. I said "ah, it's just cosmetic". I have climbed like that many times. But then I surprised myself taking the crampon off, inspecting it and readjusting anew. I remember clearly at the back of my mind a briefly flashed image of the exit chute of the Red Banks with entire stretch of Avalanche Gulch and also the episode when Joe Sim...
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